Cannelloni for Breakfast

Late March 2017. Skiers across the Northern Alps suffer from a warm front. Despite the fact that the winter seems to be over too soon, we are still hungry. While most of the powder junkies are already on their mountain bikes or climbing rocks, Nadine and I carefully observe the weather forecast and snow conditions. We already had to cancel a trip to Eastern Switzerland, but Nadine has a new plan: the Canalone Neri on the northern side of the 3,173-meter Cima Tosa, the highest peak of Northern Italy's Brenta group. The Cima Tosa is a moderate alpine climbing tour, or in the winter and with sufficient snow cover a ski line with 900 vertical meters and 50-degree sections.

The long couloir was first skied in 1970 by Heini Holzer, an Italian alpinist and one of the most famous extreme skiers of the Seventies. Over the years, the Canalone Neri has become a classic with more and more lines, and the fact that an ice wall, which previously required rappelling, has now deteriorated, makes it even more tempting for skiers. At first, I am skeptical. A very busy classic, a long journey to get there, and I still have to organize a babysitter for my son Vinzent. Nadine shows me the weather report – the last days were warm around the Cima Tosa, but there's a cold front with 10 to 15 centimeters of fresh snow approaching, followed by a high-pressure system. Perfect conditions, indeed, to ski the steep gully.

But is such a classic the right project for us? Isn't it too crowded and maybe just trendy at the moment? Classic or not Nadine says it's about the shared experience and that we will definitely score some great turns considering the forecasted conditions. She shows me an impressive picture of the gully from one of her father's old books. I am convinced. Four days later, I pick up Nadine and we drive to Madonna di Campiglio, our starting point. After a four-hour drive, we enjoy the dolce vita of the Dolomites on a small Italian terrace wearing a T-shirt and eating a serving of Cannelloni. There is no sign of snow anywhere around us, not even from the parking lot in Vallesinella, where we start the tour.

We put all our ski gear into our backpacks and begin the long hike. An idyllic trail leads through a forest. Soon, we reach the tree line and the massive peaks of the Brenta tower above our heads. We see impressive rock formations and, finally and most important: snow! From the mountain path, we catch a first glance of our object of desire. We can't stop smiling. The air is getting colder and we are optimistic. After reaching the winter room of the Rifugio Ai Brentei, we enjoy some bacon, cheese, and schnapps and absorb the last rays of the sun. It's slowly getting dark, and the full moon rises like a large headlamp over the steep gully. With a cup of hot tea in our hands, we soak up the silence and solitude of the mountains.

Our only company are a few mice looking to steal some of our food. After a relaxing night, we set off on our skis. We cross a flat plain and master the first ascent. At the beginning of the gully, we switch to our crampons. We climb straight up through the channel, direct line, ice axe in hand. The sun slowly rises, pushing aside the dark shadows of the dawn. The steep and high rock faces to our left and right are impressive. It's already an extraordinary experience to just stand here in the middle of this rocky and snowy gully. We find our rhythm, and after one-third of the way, we know that we are in the right place at the right time. The new snow has already settled well, and the conditions are ideal for touring.

The ice step in the middle of the ascent is gone. Ecologically a pity, but perfect for us: a 900 meters long and steep channel that can be skied without rappelling. No need to slow down. We can't wait to enjoy it. But we have to reach the top first. We can feel the climb and the altitude of 3,173 meters in our legs when we finally reach the impressive summit plateau of the Cima Tosa at midday. We are rewarded with a sensational view across the Brenta and Adamello group. After a quiet snack, it's time: We put our skis on and drop into the channel. The wind slightly shifted the snow overnight and left a thin crust. This calls for a bit of caution, and we must avoid snow slabs. Falling is not an option. After a few meters, we get used to the steepness.

The snow is no longer windblown, and we are treated with perfect powder. We get into the proper flow, and our self-confidence grows. With her perfect ski technique, Nadine is not holding back. With every turn, the smiles on our faces get broader. The 900 vertical meters are tough and my thighs complain about the lack of training. Unfortunately, it doesn't take too long before the gully releases us into the wide-open slope. We are still smiling as we look back to Canaloni Neri and Cima Tosa. Later, at our bivouac, we feel satisfied and proud. And more than happy to have experienced this together!