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Paths are made by Walking

Issue 2023 · Words: Regina Wohlgenannt · Photos: Max Draeger · 4 min read

Paths are made by Walking

Do they still exist, new adventures right on your doorstep? Are there peaks among those mountains, which we have visited and skied often, that can still be discovered by freeriders like us? This a …

Do they still exist, new adventures right on your doorstep? Are there peaks among those mountains, which we have visited and skied often, that can still be discovered by freeriders like us? This a question that Reverend Müller from Warth did not ask himself in 1884 when he ordered wooden boards in Scandinavia that could be used to travel on snow. The clergyman needed the skis in winter to travel faster between Warth and Lech. It was a sensation then, and even the newspaper wrote about it. Ever since, a lot has changed at the Arlberg, but the fascination to explore new paths and leave tracks is still as great as it was 100 years ago. The Arlberg today is, above all, one thing: a world-famous freeride haven, reportedly with a snow guarantee.

But it is also known as quickly tracked and too often photographed. In avalanche science there is even a term for this phenomenon – the "Arlberg effect." This is because the constant and consistent skiing around the ski lifts creates a very homogeneous and therefore favorable snowpack. Millions of skiers have skied the Arlberg on and off-piste in recent decades. In addition, many stars of the scene have pitched their tents here and are currently shaping the evolution of the sport. Therefore, you wonder whether there is anything left to be discovered. The very question has kept Simon Wohlgenannt busy for a long time. The Vorarlberg native has been working as a ski guide for more than ten years.

"Because the Arlberg is so enormously versatile, new mountains and lines keep catching my eye," he says. So it's far from boring up there, and the mountains always offer an invitation to new adventures. For example he discovered an exciting mountain near the Stuttgarter Hut, the Fanggekarspitze with 8,661 feet. Tucked away from the usually busy freeride terrain of Arlberg, the Stuttgarter Hut at 7,578 feet used to be accommodation mainly for alpinists and hunters. Actually it is located on Tyrolean soil, very close to the border with Vorarlberg. In any case, Simon has asked himself a hundred times whether there is a way into the north-facing gully system via the exposed ramp below the summit structure of this mountain and, thus, whether there could be a continuous, skiable line.

To investigate, he assembled a team – Lena Koller, Fabian Spindler and Max Draeger – waited ages for perfect conditions and finally set off, true to the motto: "Don't go where the path may lead, but go where there is no path and leave a trail." In the past mule trails were used to transport cattle, salt and linen across the Arlberg. Ever since the opening of the Arlberg railway line in 1884 and the expansion of the Arlberg mountain pass, more and more skiers found their way to the Arlberg. In keeping with the spirit of "earn your turns," Simon set off on his bike from his home base in Schruns / Montafon and met the team at the Arlberg. Together they quickly left the hustle and bustle of Zürs behind and tracked their way toward the Stuttgarter Hut.

In the winter of 22/23 the Alps did not see large amounts of snow for a long time – at the Arlberg it took until March and April. So in April, with over half a meter of fresh, conditions were very winter-like, perhaps even too winter-like for steep lines. Therefore, the team started with a few warm-up runs around Rüfispitze and tested the snow cover. The sunny midday was bridged and enjoyed with a delicious snack at the hut. Then it was a matter of catching the last sun rays on the Erlispitze – including another powder run to the hut. An excellent way to end the day which also compensated for the short, cold night that followed. The next day began early, cloudy and anything but perfect. But the team set out anyway, and fortune was on their side.

Shortly before reaching the summit of Fanggekarspitze, the sun broke through and permitted the view into the steep northern flank. And most importantly, the team saw that the exposed ramp led directly across a short vertical step into a long chute. Everyone looked forward to this run, even though the snow could have been better after the previous day's warm conditions. An exciting freeride line was possible via the narrow, steep chute: a stunning first descent. So it's true – there is a skiable line through the northern flank of Fanggekarspitze, and: New paths are created while you walk... well, actually while you ski! The team was happy to have discovered a new freeride objective at the Arlberg. And they all agreed. Those small adventures along new paths still exist!

Paths are made by Walking
© Max Draeger
Paths are made by Walking
© Max Draeger
Paths are made by Walking
© Max Draeger
Paths are made by Walking
© Max Draeger
Paths are made by Walking
© Max Draeger