Upper Vinschgau Revisited

Until now, Thomas and I had mostly just passed through the Upper Vinschgau Valley on our way to the classic spring ski tours in the Ortler region. It was finally time to get to know the area properly. Together with two friends, we set out to discover a diverse ski-touring destination nestled between the Ötztal Alps and the Sesvenna mountains. High trailheads allow for plenty of tours even in years with little snow, while there are no large ski resorts to be found anywhere nearby. Add to that South Tyrolean hospitality and superb cuisine, and the Langtaufererhof became our base for four days. Sometimes accompanied by a local mountain guide, sometimes on our own, we chose our objective for the day depending on the weather and snow conditions.

On the afternoon of our arrival, we set out directly from the hotel, aiming for Mitterlochspitze (10,420 feet) via the Masebenalm. It was the perfect tour to settle in as a group. We all knew each other already, but this particular combination was new. And finally – there was snow! High clouds covered the sky, but visibility remained good. After following a forest road to the Masebenalm, we briefly paralleled a surface lift before heading into open alpine terrain. Just below the summit, we left our skis and climbed the final stretch on foot along an easy ridge. A beautifully crafted summit cross welcomed us at the top, inviting a long break before the clouds finally thickened.

By the time we started skiing back, the mountain had disappeared into a complete whiteout, forcing us to navigate the upper slopes by following the GPS track on our watches. Fortunately, visibility improved further down, where we even found a few enjoyable powder turns before returning safely to base.

The following morning greeted us with blue skies. Once again, we enjoyed the luxury of stepping out the front door and straight onto the skin track. Our destination was Glockhauser (9,856 feet), this time accompanied by a local mountain guide. Although we are experienced ski mountaineers ourselves, local knowledge is always invaluable. Someone who spends their entire winter here knows not only the snowpack but also the countless little terrain details – and exactly where the best snow is hiding. The ascent followed perfect ski slopes overlooking the Langtauferer Valley as clouds drifted through, revealing the landscape before closing again. After a handful of powder turns, we rewarded ourselves with a sauna session. It had started snowing again, so after our session, we threw ourselves into the fresh powder outside. We’d certainly had worse Tuesdays.

Day three brought more demanding conditions. Heavy snowfall during the night was followed by increasingly strong winds, so we opted for Innerer Nockenkopf (9,094 feet) in the Rojental – a technically easy summit, slightly lower and generally sheltered by the surrounding peaks. Would our plan pan out? We set off full of optimism. Near the summit ridge, however, we found ourselves bundled deep inside our hardshells, hoods pulled tightly around our faces. Conversation became almost impossible, turning the climb into a strangely meditative experience.

At the same time, nature rewarded us with remarkable light. Snow crystals sparkled in the diffused glow, the landscape lay buried beneath fresh snow, we were completely alone, and clouds repeatedly opened before swallowing the sun again. “Scenically flawless,” kept coming to mind – a phrase my father and his ski touring buddies always love to use. I couldn’t help smiling. It became one of those tours that stay with you long after the summit itself has faded from memory.

Our final objective was also the biggest: Pleresspitze (10,459 feet), the highest and longest tour of our trip. Under brilliant sunshine, we started from the Grieshöfe in the Matsch Valley and climbed steadily through wide-open terrain.The last push to the summit required one last burst of concentration. From the ski depot, an exposed ridge with a few easy scrambling sections led to the top. Standing at the summit, we looked out over the surrounding peaks, dominated by the imposing Weißkugel. A suitable finale.

After four days in the Upper Vinschgau, one thing became clear: we had barely scratched the surface. Two tours started right outside our accomodation, three valleys revealed their own character, and every summit left us wanting another. Sometimes the best ski touring isn’t found on the famous classics – but just beyond them.