Local Beauty

I originally come from the eastern part of Hokkaido. There is Shiretoko National Park – a World Heritage Site, Akan-Mashu National Park and Kushiro-Shitsugen National Park, where colorful flowers bloom from summer to autumn. In winter the Sea of Okhotsk carries drift ice south from Siberia, and the land is covered by a white blanket of snow. Even in Hokkaido, this is a unique area where you can see the ecosystem of virgin forests and rare animals and plants. I started skiing when I was 3 years old. As an exchange student in New Zealand in my late teens I learned to ski off-piste. Back in Japan I started backcountry skiing in Hakuba. When I finally returned to my hometown after 17 years I was overwhelmed by the beauty of the region.

A beauty I had not perceived as much as a child – it's like the typical "It's hard to see what's under your nose". I wanted to explore the mountains of eastern Hokkaido in mid-winter. The temperatures in the lowlands often drop below -13 Fahrenheit, and the mountains see harsh conditions due to wind and other factors. It's a dry climate with little snowfall, so the snow on the slopes looks different from the well-known "Japow." However, I was convinced that the views from the mountain tops had to be great. I was ready for an adventure with some new challenges. By exploring the area where I was born and raised I would also be able to get to know myself a bit better.

I was told that the photographer Taka was also interested in taking ski pictures in eastern Hokkaido. He seemed to have an exact idea of an image of a skier on the Shiretoko Peninsula with drift ice on the sea water in the background. I shared his vision, and without hesitation we began to make plans for a joint trip to eastern Hokkaido a few months later. As it turned out the drift ice was supposed to arrive later than usual, so we made a compromise: A photo without the icy background, but more hours in the mountains, skiing. The first objective of our trip was Mt. Meakan (4,916 feet), a mountain I had seen every day in my childhood and had often climbed and skied. After a slow cup of coffee in the morning we set out to take photos at sunset.

We followed a gently snowy trail through the woods until we were greeted by blue skies and a stunning winter landscape at tree line. Taka, concerned about the proper lighting for his photographs, quickened his pace and traversed to the opposite slope. Near the summit ridge there was almost no wind. We focused on our tasks while we waited for the slopes to turn pink with the sunset. After I set off I enjoyed a much longer run than I had expected. On our way back we crawled through the dark forest with headlamps and finally arrived safely at the hot springs located at the foot of the mountain. The next day we encountered white rabbits climbing Mt. Shari (5,075 feet).

The snow-covered trees glistening in the sun were incredibly beautiful and forever etched into my memory. The expansive panorama of the Shiretoko Mountains, Kunashiri Island, the Sea of Okhotsk, Lake Mashu and Lake Kussharo was equally magnificent. This silent world was mystical, and that day I became a true fan of these mountains. After skiing down again after sunset we warmed up at the Moor Onsen, also a World Heritage site, to conclude the day. On our last day we decided to climb Mt. Mokoto (3,280 feet), which is easily accessible and very popular because of its magnificent view. I wanted to experience sunrise on the summit, so this time I was urging Taka to hurry up in the morning.

As I crossed the summit ridge I was surrounded by clouds, but upon reaching the top it cleared up and a magnificent 360-degree view appeared: Lake Kussharo just below the summit, Mt. Meakan, which we had skied on the first day, the Shiretoko Peninsula all the way to the Sea of Okhotsk, and Mt. Shari which we had visited the day before. Although there was no fresh snow it was cold enough for a great last powder run to the valley. Although it is my homeland this trip took me to a different, amazing world. For the first time I was able to enjoy the dialogue with the serene mountains of eastern Hokkaido. Backcountry skiing is not only about skiing, it is always a journey and a great companion in my life.