Wilderness, right on our Doorstep

The alarm goes off at 7 am. It's our last day, and it's time to venture out and explore the far end of this vast valley called Les Avals. This project has been on the back of my mind for several years but unfavorable snow conditions, high avalanche danger or other obligations kept me from coming here earlier even though the valley is bordering the Courchevel ski resort and thus easily accessible. The local guides love Les Avals. It's a fantastic playground for them and their clients, just on the doorstep of the luxurious Savoyard resort. Our objective was to make use of the easy accessibility to transport our gear and supplies for several days and then explore the less-known, much wilder and steeper higher parts of the valley.

Les Avals has two huts with only a few hundred meters' distance between them. The Refuge de Grand Plan – a large, modern, well-equipped chalet – used to be open summer and winter, but in December 2013, the warden passed in an avalanche and the hut has been closed since. The second hut, Refuge Lacs Merlets, is only manned in summer. It's less luxurious, but this little chalet with its steep, triangle-shaped roof has a charm of its own. It's part of the Vanoise National Park and features everything necessary: a stove, wood, gas, beds, and candles. The quality of snow has been particularly difficult last March. The region saw very generous snowfalls followed by a brutal period of high temperatures causing very unstable conditions.

A light snowfall and several days of good weather were enough for us to set off. From the Roc Merlet chairlift, we skinned up with all our gear to a ridge that led us directly to the Refuge Lacs Merlets. Leaving civilization behind us, we headed into a completely wild and isolated valley. The hut reminds me of a children's playhouse, planted in the snow at the entrance to a territory with plenty of freeriding potential. Our first objective is the northern couloir of the Grosse Tête (2,728 meters). We follow the valley floor to the south before climbing the southern couloirs with the skis on our backs. The snow is stable and access is easy.

The panorama from the ridge leading to the summit is simply breathtaking: our left: the end of Les Avals valley with the Vanoise glaciers in the background looking like a huge ice cap. Facing us is the long Gebroulaz glacier and the highest peaks of the three-valley ski resort are to our right. At the summit of the Grosse Tête, we can choose between two north-facing couloirs. I opt for the second one, a narrow 45-degree couloir that passes through a rock slab section at the top which, depending on the snow cover, isn't always skiable. It looks to be all powder. Magnificent! Because I am afraid it might slide, I need to ski quickly and accurately through the steep section. I go for it; the snow is deep and soft. Pure pleasure.

But the following section is windblown. The hardpack takes us by surprise. Further down, we are again treated with deep, light snow. To get back to the hut, we need to climb 100 vertical meters with skins. The idea of a picnic in the sun on the terrace of our cabin encourages us to speed up. The sun is slowly setting. Finally, the Aiguille de Chanrouge shines in the last sunlight. A magic moment. Our second objective is the northern couloir of the Aiguille du Rateau (2,888 meters). The north face features several couloirs, but one is of particular interest: the one only accessible through a needle eye. As we exit the lower valleys, we start climbing the southern face of the Rateau. This side has snow, stable and supportive – ideal conditions!

We are beneath the famous needle eye, which we need to pass to access the northern couloir. The hole is a dozen meters above us, but the passage is snowless and we have to climb. The snow on the northern side seems to be cold and fresh and about twenty centimeters deep. A boulder is blocking the passage after 20 meters. We fix a belay in the needle and rappel down without taking our skis off. The next section is pretty steep with 45 degrees, but the skiing is great. Two large couloirs follow. A half-hour climb finally takes us back to the hut. We conclude the day sitting around the stove, playing cards and enjoying a bottle of red wine. The next morning, the distant Dômes de Polset and the Grosse Tête are bathing in the sunlight.

We ski to the bottom and deposit most of our equipment behind a rock, only holding on to the essentials for our day's mission: the northern couloir of the Roche Nue (2,981 meters). The conditions have changed, and the snow has become windblown. Skis on our backs and ice axes in our hands we attack the climb from the bottom of the northern couloir. It takes considerable effort to bootpack through the snow to the summit of this wide couloir, overhung by small rock faces on each side. We leave the last meters of the climb to the crows; the dominant cornice on top doesn't look too enticing. This aesthetically pleasing couloir is crying out to be skied and skied fast! The slope is smooth with an even 40 to 45 degrees.

However, the conditions ask for caution, and we link our turns carefully before we reach the bottom with our thighs burning. We recollect our packs and sit on a rock in the sun, eating the leftovers from the previous days. We end our adventure by following the classic Les Avals off-piste route to the bottom of the valley, which eventually takes us to Courchevel Moriond. We're back where we started. We have only explored a small part of the higher section of the Les Avals valley, but this has already brought us a huge amount of pleasure. If you want to be independent and enjoy basic comfort, the Refuge Lacs Merlets is the ideal base. With the surrounding slopes – most of them facing north and never exceeding more than 700 vertical meters – it's a heavenly playground; and wilderness, right on our doorstep.